The Transcendent Red
Until a few years ago, the red grape variety from the world famous vineyards of Santorini in the Cyclades, with the black and crunchy berries - characteristics from which the name Mavrotragano ("mav-row-tra-gun-oh") is derived - was almost considered lost.
A promising variety, which has been developing and slowly revealing its potential. The grape gained popularity from experimental bottlings by Charidimos Hatzidakis (when he worked at the Boutaris estate) in the 1980s and Paris Sigalas in the 1990s, and several Santorini producers followed suit, including it in their vineyards. There is now a significant quality production in islands outside of Santorini as well as in vineyards in Northern Greece.
Today, it accounts for less than 2% of the Santorini vineyard. Surprisingly, it is a vine that is not resistant to drought, giving the impression of preferring less dry-hot climates. It reaches maturity in the second half of August. Maceration and long extractions will give depth of color and its tannic structure rewards aging in oak.
It produces wines with deep, dense color, excellent concentration, moderate acidity with a rich palette of red, black fruits and minerality with intense tannins. Mavrotragano wines, although there is not a large sample, show that they have aging potential.
Some notable blends are with Mandilaria (a widespread Aegean variety), Augustiatis, Mavroudi and Limnio (from northern Greece). In its monovarietal versions, it is recommended with grilled red meat and juicy cuts (rare/medium rare), elements with which the robust structure of these wines can be balanced.
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